WOW! What have I been missing with the extra time all these years? These things are amazing and took me getting a gift to realize, DOH!

Before it would take 15 minutes on average to air down and monitor all four tires. This typically takes place with talking with your fellow wheelers prepping for the trail. Can not go too far or lose your train of thought by getting distracted. If you did, you could air down too low and either match all the others or air back up a little.

It takes little to set the four to the desired air down level, which is my fav new number 14lbs. The only way you could screw that up is if you didn’t know how to count revolutions of the little plug. Did a test with all four deflators and got them all set perfect to each other. I looked a little silly testing them out airing down, then filling up, then repeat until all four were set. Hey who cares, it was in my driveway in my socks and shower shoes. Update 09.10.10: Have used them a couple times at the start of a trail and I am the envy of the group, super simple and has been perfect matched air pressure each time.

The good: Takes less then five minutes each tire and it does it while you have more time to socialize, prep other gear and make fun of the other guys with manual tire deflators.

The Bad: They will be the envy of the rest of your group and you will end up feeling obligated to lend them half of yours to air down in style! That in turn will take you longer to actually air down all four tires. Pretty, very pretty anodized look, Typically with enough man-handling that stuff will wear off to the natural look of aluminum. Time will tell though…….

The ulgy: You can air down while driving, uh, my luck they will catch something and rip out the valve stem. If they get too dirty or the little springs inside that set the pressure level concerns me with wear. Not a lot of info on that on the net but again I guess time will tell answer that question.

Then I went to the Rubicon Express Track bar, RE1600 that utilizes a Rod End. Worked much better and only replaced the Rod End once in a little over a year of owning it. Couple weeks ago I came across some noise from my front end only to discover my OE track bar bracket had cracked and the bolt wobbled out.

Alright time to try something different I say and started to look around at all the many setups available. I had a wish list: I wanted it beefy, would use poly bushings that would be cheaper to replace than Rod Ends, or flex joints, and of course included a new double sheer bracket for the frame end.

I came across this company, Iron Rock Off Road. A fairly new company to me, I had not heard a whole lot about them, other than me searching on the net finding posts on some forums criticizing them for being so new and different. However they had some pretty interesting products on their web page for many a Jeep model, including a HD track bar for $189 for my XJ.

“Interesting” as I thought to myself, every company had a starting point sometime in there development right?

So I called them with some questions and after receiving a gentleman on the other end that was eager to answer all my questions and pointing out the track bar itself is a 1.25 SOLID bar (apparently I can not read or I need glasses as it is in the body of the text describing the product), but I was now very interested. Specially telling me it was in stock and could get to my door for $200–so I ordered it.

This was Tuesday, I received on Saturday, four days later on a weekend with no extra charges.

Sunday comes around and I gather my tools and my new assistant wrencher;

Took about half an hour to pull off my old RE1600 and frame bracket. Then pulled out the new Iron Rock Track Bar all the way from the package. I got to say it looked good, very well put together with a very clean cut fabricated bracket and nice clean welds on both items. The track bar was beefy, felt a lot heavier than my old Rubicon Express track bar. The adjustable frame side bushing I was also impressed with the amount of thread they give you for adjusting.

Took another half hour to bolt up and set the track. SEXY!!!

The Good: The price at $200 delivered to my door, in four days and on a Saturday. Who can complain about that? Compared to other brands out there, this one is beefier than others at the same price range. The customer service at Iron Rock Off Road was very pleasurable and was part of my decision to go with them. They offer a great guarantee on their product…………..so should I go purposely break it to test out the guarantee?

The Bad: Unlike my Re1600 there is no outward bend from the axle and I worry I am going to smack the front differential cover upon compression of the driver’s side tire. Awe shucks, I guess I have to go wheeling to test that out, huh?

The Ugly: Hmmm nothing really, how about the fact I get his bad boy on and haven’t had a chance to go wheeling yet? I guess also my head when I came up from installing this thing smacked it on my front hook off my winch. Hurt a lot, in fact in writing of this I remember the sheer pain that I felt upon hitting it, it is a psychological thing……………. or how about mom’s face when she saw how dirty and greasy my assistant wrencher was after helping me and explaining to her it is a: “Jeep thing”, she didn’t understand……………..

There have been other companies who have made upper quarter panel armor and seeing them in person I found they looked good on the vehicle, but either very expensive, or the use of thin material and not quite the fit I was looking for.

JCR Off-road had started to make their own version for XJ’s a year or so ago and I waited a while to here some feedback on them.  Hearing some good feedback from fellow XJ owners about them I decided to move on them and ordered me up a set.  For $170 for a set with tail-light protectors plus $30+ shipping they were around $200. They also offer for another $110 full tail-lights as well, but I wanted to keep the electrical and lighting OE and simpler.

They have a couple weeks fabrication delay as they make them on the spot. Two weeks after I ordered them they arrived on my doorstep. Very impressed!

Looking at their pictures on there website they changed the top part of the guard by adding another 1″ of material bent in to match the curve of the XJ body. That is a BIG bonus as working with fabrication in the past this adds structural strength to the guard. Now why they do not update the pictures of their product on the web-page I do not know, because it is an improvement over other brands and a good selling point.

The Good: Reasonably priced for the quality you get. They fit perfect, they were a cinch to align to the vehicle, and they look good! Thick  material unlike others brands use of thin gauge metal.

The Bad: They are heavy and takes two people to install: one to hold the guards, while the other aligns it up and marks the holes. They are too pretty and like a new pair of shoes you cringe when you scratch them up but that is what they are there for. Go figure…….

The Ugly: The bolts JCR supplies are raw metal, If you forget to paint them they will instantly rust in the first week. Nothing to do with the guards, but getting to the bolts on the driver’s side guards is a PITA! Need a long armed person with child like hands to get to them as the gas filler and all the electrical on that side is like sticking your hand in a snake hole filled with glass shards sticking out of the sides. Ouch!

The one thing I failed to think of was the injectors which were probably the ones that they stuck in the motor when it was assembled in 1990, and if not they looked old. I decided considering what feels like I should get more out of my motor and that my fuel economy is for crap, is to replace the injectors.

So priced them out at auto stores at $60+ each, or $360+ for all six, ouch!

Looked around on the net and found these guys on ebay; PRECISION AUTO INJECTORS .

They recycle by rebuilding old injectors and flow matching them into sets for you at a great price!

I caught a sale for $107 for a set for my ’90 XJ and their service was super fast. USPS Priority mail, ordered on a Wednesday and received that Friday. Only two days shipping! The package was air formed for protection and had 1-6 marked on the caps on each injector. I received a slip with my invoice with these same corresponding numbers that showed what flow they were rated at.

They even included O-rings so I did not have to buy them from the auto store. Took all of an hour to install and started it up.

Wow! The Jeep started up faster, went to a smoother idle fast, and when took for a test drive! Yep the old injectors were dirty dirty and hurting my performance!

This is simple, those little injectors can make a huge difference in the way your 4×4 runs and these guys at Precision Injectors are awesome!

I am recycling, I got a matched set of injectors by flow rate for my vehicle at an incredible price, oh I forgot to mention they carry a life time guarantee!!!  ………..sorry I failed to mention that. (Big smiley)

I got the time and opportunity recently to use Ballistic’s Flex Joint in a set of custom fixed lower control arms I built for a fellow wheeler on a budget and was really impressed with their quality.  Similar to the Rubicon Express Flex Joint but with a machined housing eliminating the snap ring on one side, and $10 cheaper than the Rubicon Flex Joint. (this is a picture of Ballistic’s Heavy Duty Flex Joint I used in that project)

A little jealous after making those, I decided to do something for myself using some Ballistic products. I didn’t really need a new pair of control arms as I already had a nice pair of TOMKEN’s, but what the hey!

I was also going to go green and recycle. As you are now saying to yourself, what?

I am a pack rat and save stuff I probably could throw away, but end up storing it. However I always find a way to use it somehow, as for an example I had my old long arms off my Coil Over setup on my CJ-7 that has been on my garage floor for 2 1/2 years now, and I have been wondering what to do with them.

Perfect opportunity for this new project I say, and cheaper too!  These old arms had a weird poly bushing I could never find a replacement for and the original place I got them from went out of business. The Other end used 3/4″ rod ends and the arm itself was beefy as you can see in the pics below they are 1.5″ DOM .250 wall tube sleeved in 1 3/4″ .100 wall tube.

I was going to be scrapping the poly bushing side and then re-use the other end where the 3/4″ Left Hand Rod Ends were. I was also going to do these comp style were I use a Left and Right Hand joint on each side of the arm to do fine adjustments. You just loosen the jam nuts and turn in either direction to shorten or lengthen. Which is nice to have for the fact that 99% of the after market control arms you can buy you have to remove one end of the control arm entirely from the bracket just to adjust the length.

I had (1) Right Hand Tube insert for the other side so I only needed (1) more of those and then instead of the regular flex Joint I was going to use Ballistics’s Forged Flex Joint! These things are pretty beefy and I can get them with a 3/4″ shank to use in my recycled arms. (Read the specs on their website, the tensile strength listed is 8x the strength of a medium grade rod end, WOW!)

I decided I was going to go with (2) right hand Forged Flex Joints on one end, and then (2) of their new Forged Poly joints on the end. These are similar in many ways to the flex joint, but with a poly bushing to coincide with the flex joint in a control arm combination.

Having to wait a week and a half in anticipation for the parts to show up I was not disappointed when they arrived as I was drooling all over them. You can see the size difference when they are compared to a typical 3/4″ Rod End.

So to get started I first made myself a jig on my work bench to get the proper length. I needed to figure out how much of the actual tube I needed with the joints, jam nuts, and tube ends all put together. I matched the stock control arm length of 15.75″ that is on a XJ/TJ. These arms with the Ballistic Joints can be adjusted outward up to 18″ or more! The shank on these joints are really long compared to a regular Rod End. Once I got my measurement I then cut and drilled holes for the plug welds for the two new tube ends, but before welding them together I pre-assembled to make sure everything was correct.

Once I made sure everything was were it needed to be I welded it all up, then wire brushed, painted, and assembled. Check out the nice beauty shot to the right!

Now it was time to put these bad boys on my XJ! I removed my old TOMKEN Control Arms and you can see there is a little difference in the size of the flex joints. The Ballistic Forged Flex Joint is a little bigger than the Currie Johnny Joint used in the TOMKEN arms.

After I got them installed they definitely look better in my opinion than my TOMKEN arms. I was not particularly fond of the bend in the TOMKEN arms as the primary purpose for that is to help clear the back of the coil/shock bracket when the axle flexes downwards and I had already cut out the back part of my brackets, so I did not need that feature. The straight arm is cleaner looking, and stronger. FYI; yes when you bend tube it stretches one side weakening it in the process. (Go ask an engineer)

Definitely my taste, and I love the Ballistic Fabrication Skull! (Hey I have an obsession with skulls, Skully get it?)

I definitely like Ballistic’s Forged Flex and Poly joints. They are very high quality product in every way. I almost hated using them, they are so pretty. A minor thing I like is they use silver zinc coating, which is not that big a deal, but most products out there use the gold colored stuff, the silver looks a lot better in my opinion.

I have had some drive time on these new arms and I noticed they do not transfer as much of the road noise my TOMKEN control arms did. I think the poly material Ballistic uses in their poly busings is softer than the TOMKEN arms.

The only complaint I have is the position of the grease zerks. They are in a spot that I know will get broken off, but I had no alternatives for if I flip the joints to position the zerks to the topside, I would not be able to get a grease gun in the tight spot. Even if I replaced the zerks with 90 degree versions.

I would have liked to have gone with the overkill of the 1.25″ shank instead of 3/4″, but then that would defeat the purpose of recycling DOM material and also would have cost me more. Example for 2″ .250 wall DOM tube is running $15-$18 a foot, and tube ends for 1.25 are about $17 each. The project as is, recycling my old arms only cost me $150. If I would have went with the 1.25″ stuff; I am not recycling and it would have cost me about $240.

I am not too worried about the strength of the 3/4″ shank. I ran 35″ tires on my CJ-7 with locked axles front and rear for 6+ years with 3/4″ Rod Ends and never had a problem. Time wheeling with these arms will reveal any problems or defects. So look for an update in the future as I will get myself a season of wheeling in and do a 6 month review in the making of Ballistic’s Products!

Until then, Happy Wheeling!

One of the things I had not address yet was my upper control arms which the OE versions are not known for their incredible strength, but now the time had come to address their deficiency.

I had two options; build my own or buy something off the shelf.

Option one; Fabbing up my own would be cheaper, but my problem is this. It is very hard now a days to do any sort of fabbing work on a short time frame simply for the fact with a child under two and the wife half way along with our second child, almost impossible.

Option two; I found myself tied with which to choose, as there are many brands on the market that are all really the same just different style flex joints and if they are adjustable or not. Definitely wanted something adjustable even though “4.5 of lift according to many charts show the upper arms stay the same length as stock.  Then there was the cost, OUCH! (Your kidding right, you want that much for a set?)

I found a perfect moment, Rough Country recently re-designed their controls arms to use a Johny Joints style end instead of their old style which copy Tera Flex’s original design. This was simply 1/2 the arm was  male threaded and screwed into the other 1/2 of the arm that was female threaded. Creating the adjustability and a lot of unrestricted flex.

Now in my personal opinion I really like the idea behind the old style Tera Flex arms simple because you have no restrictions on the twisting of the arm unlike a flex joint’s limited 32-35 degrees. There is a drawback with the design. You have to keep grease packed nice and tight in the arm threads or they will eventually wobble and become loose creating a popping clank sound.

I called Rough Country and since they are a big supporting vendor on NAXJA board they give you a great discount as well. Called the main contact person through the board and asked him since they are releasing the new designed X-flex arms if they have any of the old design laying around and to my joy they did. Got a set shipped to my door for around $115, which is a killer deal! (even cheaper than fabbing my own.)

Took me all of a couple hours to install them and the biggest issue  was while I was replacing the arms I figure I would replace my bushings in the axle end as well. That was a nightmare! Suggestion for anyone planning on doing that just take apart the front axle, coils, trackbar, etc.  Will save you cuss words and a lot of headaches ahead of time.

I did find a quirk that didn’t really effect me in the end though. Screwing the arms down to the recommended length of “15 for the height I found the arms had bottomed out. In other words making the twisting flex useless for one direction. So backing them back out a 1/4 of an inch would fix that but now my upper arms are at “15 1/4 instead of “15.  I really didn’t have a choice in the matter as I would like to use the full potential of the twisting flex the arms were designed to do.

Since installing them three months ago I have managed to get several hundred miles on them and I have noticed that my street ride seemed to improve including responsiveness to turning the wheel as everything felt really tight and smooth. The 1/4 more in length has not affected anything that I can feel.

Now to the wheeling to which I managed to get a couple trips in as well. I have had no issues and now my axle definitely likes to twist and flex but created a minor problem as now I get an increase in noise on the coils as they drop farther down the upper stem and bump stop. I also have lifted a wheel now, as I bottomed out my shock.  I will have to look into  a fix for that and also make sure I follow my monthly routine of packing grease in the arms along with all my other grease able parts.

Overall I am very pleased with them and the fact I got such a killer deal  made it a definite BIG BANG for my buck!

The LUVMJP and TrailDriven Team will be hitting the trail with The Colorado Chapter that day.

Here is the TrailDamage Link for that trail.

View Larger Map

So far my experience with the Aussie Locker has been pleasant, everything has been as expected and experienced no issues. This continued with swapping out the carriers as I found a local Denver guy that does Ring & Pinion work out of his garage and comes highly recommended by many. He goes by the online persona 87xjco and you can find him on NAXJA.org or on the colorado4X4.org boards.  He cut me a pretty good deal to reset the Ring Gear as it turned out my luck was with me again. I will explain here soon but first you might ask why didn’t I try it myself? 1.) I do not have the experience or time to learn this and gears setups can go really wrong if not done right. I did not want to take a chance on my daily driver. 2.) to make the job easy on yourself having the special tools is a must, and they are expensive and I am broke.

So here is how it went down; Arrived at 11am at his garage. Break free the lug nuts on the rear wheels and jacked up the back end with blocks in front of the Jeep, putting the transfercase in neutral. Pulled the wheels, then the drums, and then yanked shafts partially out only to free up the carrier. Yanked the cover drained the fluid, once done 87xjco slapped on a case spreader and checked the current setup. Everything was nice and tight and no apparent excessive wear. He pulled the carrier and started to remove the bearings and the Ring Gear.

While he was messing with the Ring Gear I cleaned up my nice Crane Cover and the surface of the axle waiting for him to get everything to go back in. He set the new carrier with my Aussie Locker into the axle and put on the yellow marker paste and ran it through, PERFECT! he said. Which translated into meaning everything lined up beautifully and he did not have to play with it any more.

So he battened down the carrier and the cover while I reassembled the axle shafts, drums, and tires. We finished around 12:30 so it took only 1  hour and 30 minutes and I was expecting 3 hours worth of work. Woohoo!

I had previous experience with a full locker with my old CJ-7 as it had a Detroit Locker in the rear axle. So I am very familiar with all the quirks they have to offer; clanking, clicking and the infamous “Locker pop” which is when you go around a corner and power it out and the rear end makes a loud BANG causing your rear to jerk around. So driving away and putting 60+ miles on it I was surprized in many ways. Aussie Locker claims that with an auto tranny the banging backlash noise and “Locker pop” are not as severe as with a manual tranny and so far this is true as my CJ-7 was a manual and my XJ is an automatic and I have yet to experience any backlash noise or “Locker pop”.  The Aussie Locker from what I have read also claims to be quieter than most full traction lockers, but I definitely hear the Aussie Locker a lot more than with my Detroit Locker. It could be after 8+ years with my CJ-7 I got so use to the noise I tuned it out and don’t remember really hearing it and I have not had a vehicle with a locker in it for over a year now, so this might be the case. Aussie Locker stated there is a break in period of 200 miles then it will quiet down. I will reach that pinnacle soon so we will see. However in the mean time Part 3 will be the most important, but it will be awhile before I can get to it as the sole purpose for buying the Aussie Locker in the first place is for wheeling. So stay tuned in the near future when I can get some trail time in with this locker. (There is an obstacle on a trail that really isn’t that hard but I got hung up last year because my Trac Lok failed to deliver. I want to go back and beat it into submission for the simple fact of retribution.) More to come!

I also wanted something that was very simple. For example in my last Jeep I had a Detroit Locker in the rear and I loved the thing! Awesome offroad, the street driving took a while to get use to, definitely had its quirks but was pretty much indestructible. However a Detroit was even out of my budget range. This leaves me with  “Lunchbox” style lockers, which in general simply replace the spider gears, so they are pretty affordable.  Several brands on the market, pretty much all the same save construction and minor design differences.

I have been reading nothing but good things about Aussie Lockers for a couple years now. They are priced just right  at around $250 to your door straight from the manufacture.  The reviews I have read say they are pretty tough, and people are using them with 33-35 tires with no problems. So I picked one up as my Christmas present ’08, but since I have a factory Trak Loc in my Dana 44, I now needed an open carrier 3.73 down as the Aussie will not install in a factory Trak Loc.  Crawler Tech 4×4 hooked me up with a carrier for a great deal as he has stacks of them from doing gear upgrades. (If you are in the Denver area and you want any custom work done, you cannot go wrong with them!)

So this weekend I decided to play around and install the Aussie into the carrier. From everything I have read lunchbox lockers are really easy to install and with the carrier on the bench 30 minutes tops. Decided to thoroughly read over the instructions first and that was a lot of  reading, very thick instructions. This doesn’t mean it was complicated. Aussie did a wonderful job of having very detailed but easy to understand instructions. I give them props for such detail as it really helped me out putting this thing together and understanding what I was doing.

First I took apart the carrier with the internals and lay out the Aussie Locker ready for install.

Started to assemble everything and the one thing about this Aussie Locker is the manufacture’s emphasis on the tolerance levels between everything. As I was assembling I had to take gap measurements and record them in the registry log at the back of the instruction manual for warranty use. First measurement was the spacers and cross shaft and according to their guide I was very tight at the limit they recommend for it. Apparently this carrier has rarely been used as the opposite too much gap means it is worn out. Second measurement as after you get the pins and springs in you check for gap between the cam gears.

Here it is assembled and ready for gap check and then the right picture cross shaft and roll pin put back;

It took me about 30 minutes overall but I had some double checking breaks just for what I mention above about it being at such tight tolerances and close to Aussie’s recommended numbers. Over all very easy to assemble and I like how simplistic the whole thing is. So more to come in PART 2 as a buddy will help me re-set  the ring gear when I swap out the factory Trak Loc and I get to do the initial tests before driving it on the street. I didn’t really do a huge install tech article as this was more of “Impressions” of the overall Aussie Locker experience. If you want a good installation article, there are plenty out there on the net. The one I found very usefull is this guy’s who put together a very simple and detailed write up with lots-o-pics, check it out;  INSTALLATION ARTICLE

Check out the Craigslist link

]]> http://www.traildriven.com/2008/12/365/feed/ 3 http://www.traildriven.com/2008/11/poor-boy-fab-shop-xj-uboltextended-bump-stops-plates/ http://www.traildriven.com/2008/11/poor-boy-fab-shop-xj-uboltextended-bump-stops-plates/#comments Sun, 16 Nov 2008 16:38:34 +0000 Skully http://www.luvmyjp.com/?p=307 Poor Boy Fab Shop; that’s me, Skully’s at home DIY projects! In this ever crappy economy most of us see an ever depleting disposable income. (Although I will admit if I did have the money I still like to fab my own stuff, its fun and saves money for the more expensive toys.)

For owners of any 4 wheel Drive the secret is to get as big of a tire as possible with the amount of lift you can afford. For XJ owners it can be a pain to figure out how to get the big tires under your vehicle as most lift kit makers state for XJ’s 4.5″ of lift you can run 32″ tires. Problem I find that not so accurate. I have 4.5″ of lift with 31′s and still rub in the front and rear.  The front of an XJ you can cut to yours hearts content to give yourself room. The rear of an XJ is a little more complicated being it is a Unibody and the pinch seam and lower quarter panel gets in the way. Even with minor to major cutting most still do some form of Bump stop extensions, this is also to stop from damaging your rear shocks compressing farther than your shocks can. Some refer to bump stops as “axle snubbers”, but for this article I will refer to them as bump stops.

On the market there are several options that are cheap to the expensive. First you can get extended bump stops $20-$30, but you still need to extend out your ubolt plates to catch them. As with the way a XJ rear leaf spring suspension is designed, when you lift it the bump stop originally would hit the axle, but with a lifted XJ flexing one wheel upwards the spring/ubolt plate comes up and side swipes the bump stop not making it very effective. So ubolt plates that you can buy that are extended out are usually designed to be the extension themselves with adding plates or spacers to adjust. These I see run from various manufactures $55 to $100. If you spend that much money just to extend the ubolt plate out to catch the bump stop, why buy longer bump stops?

I wanted to keep this project as inexpensive as possible and figure out the amount of extension needed built in as I really do not need to have all the adjustment ability at this time. (I am keeping this XJ where it is at for awhile.)

So here is what I started with, $20 for a set of used XJ ubolt plates from “Cherokee Parts Source” a local Denver metro guy that finds, buys, and parts out XJ’s and sells the parts to us lazy guys not wanting to go to the pick and pull places. (If you want his contact info give me your email addy and I can send it to you.) Some Scrap steel from the local metal supply house that charges .50 cents a pound. I figured I needed about 2″ of extension to stop before my shocks bottomed out and the tires would catch the inner fender. I cut the vertical pieces 2″ and the extended out 3″ with corners cut to avoid the shocks. After cutting the peices for all of this , I started to assemble and weld them up.

Didn’t take long to put them all together, clean up the welds, and paint them. Once dry I installed them and took measurements to make sure I had everything where I wanted it. If I need further adjustment I can either buy those extended bump stops or cut off the stock ones.

For the future I might take my old ubolt plates that I took off to put these on and do this project again, but not build in the extension and instead use hockey pucks for 1″ adjustments, but that is another time. Overall this project cost me about $25 and about 2 hours of time with installation, not including cooling or painting time. For those naysayers I might still have to add a top side gusset for strength, but I did beat the crap out of them before cleaning and painting with a 3lb sledge while they were clamped down and they seemed pretty strong………time will tell.

Here is what they look like all cleaned up, painted, and installed;

The Fling was started a few years ago, 99 I think. Some guys from the newly formed Colorado-XJ list were heading out to Moab. This happened around the same time some of our Rocky Mountain sharing Utah buddies where there. This was right around the time NAXJA was getting it’s feet wet. We didn’t call it fall fling then though. <If these details are wrong, please comment and set the story straight>

The event form then on was put together by the Intermountian NAXJA Chapter. Today the event has grown to 125+ XJs. This year the event will giveaway a XJ. I lifted, locked, highly modified rig.

I will posting video from our new Kodak Zi6 HD Camcorder. Kodak has given us a unit to test and will do just that. The Moab dust will be tossed around this new camera. We’ll see how it holds up.

Life moves fast. Grab it in HD.

- Take stunning HD videos (720p at 60 fps)
– Easy upload to YouTube™ with built-in USB
– Record hours of video—up to 32 GB worth
– View on any HDTV with the included cables
– Edit and share videos with the included software CD
- Rechargeable batteries and charger included

This years design does not offer the extra side posts. I was using those connections for my headlight harness, air compressor, and winch. I guess those will be red-neck on to the main battery terminals now.

So she’s powered up and ready for the Spring and Summer.